01 September 2011

Eating in New York City

Although most of my nine weeks in the Empire City were spent in an office, I was fortunate to have enough spare time to explore the city's endless eating excellencies. I've detailed the more notable ones below.

Kajitsu
Hard candies from Kyoto

This Michelin star awarded Japanese restaurant is distinctive - no meat and no fish. The acclaimed Kajitsu serves Shojin cuisine, an ancient Japanese cuisine developed in Zen Buddhist monasteries. Following this principle, the restaurant serves only fresh, seasonal vegetables in an almost ascetic atmosphere. The menu changes monthly and the eight-course meal was very refreshing and pure, with excellent presentation and emphasis on texture and flavor of the ingredients.


Van Horn Sandwich Shop
Foreground: Buttermilk-fried chicken, zesty vinaigrette slaw, sesame seed bun; Background: Hushpuppies

Seasonal and local ingredients highlight this Brooklyn establishment. Founded by a couple of North Carolina natives, Van Horn Sandwich Shop incorporates traditional Southern BBQ rules with a Brooklyn twist, resulting in an appealingly simple menu and filling but not heavy sandwiches. The celebrated fried chicken sandwich was amazing, with a breading that was crisp but not greasy (the secret, they say, is the buttermilk). The shop is also known for its fried cornbread hushpuppies (which were a must-order!).

(Van Horn Sandwich Shop)

Momofuku Ssam Bar
Shigoku Oysters with violette mignonette

It's not often that you order ten dishes and all of them be delicious. It's also not often that two people order ten dishes. Nonetheless, Momofuku Ssam Bar may have been my favorite restaurant in NY - and certainly one of my favorites ever - because of those facts: it was all really good and I got to sample much of the menu. The restaurant itself, part of the Momofuku restaurant group, is informal and energetic. The menu is eclectic and extensive without being overwhelming. We ordered:

Shigoku Oysters - violette mignonette

Artic Char - jasmine, sweet flag, celery

Steamed Buns - pork belly, hoisin, cucumbers, scallions

Bar Bun - crispy pork belly, avocado, basil, smoked mayo

Asparagus - trout roe, leeks, sunflower seeds

Morel Mushrooms - fingerling potatoes, ramp scapes

Spicy Honeycomb Tripe - ginger-scallion, celery, pickled tomatoes

Geoduck - cucumber gazpacho, cucumber slices, apple butter

Veal Sweetbreads - almond, sauerkraut, thai chili

Spicy Pork Sausage & Rice Cakes - chinese broccoli, sichuan peppercorn


En Japanese Brasserie
Okayu - white rice porridge cooked with an egg, tableside with an assortment of eight toppings

The purity and simplicity of Japanese food and flavors makes it easy to eat regularly, and since the menu of En embraces this so thoughtfully (though with elements of uniqueness), it makes it easy to go back. With a fixed amount of time in NY and an interest in maximizing worthwhile dining, I tried not to patronize the same restaurant multiple times. However, En was one of the two places (the other can be found below) that I was set on going to more than once. For dinner, freshly-made scooped tofu, and yellowtail collar fried with negi and a pepper-soy sauce vinaigrette highlighted my meal. For brunch, I enjoyed white rice porridge with egg and eight toppings, mushrooms in a creamy sesame dressing, and a side of kurobuta sausages.



Not pictured (because I neglected to take pictures) but just as noteworthy:
Graffiti Food and Wine Bar - Shoebox-size restaurant combines Asian, French, and American cuisines
Little Owl - Lots of fanfare and long waits for very good but definitely not great food
Mercer Kitchen - Informal Jean-Georges offering located in the Mercer Hotel
Momofuku Milk Bar - Cookies, pies, croissants, breads, and of course: cereal milk ice cream
Pearl Oyster Bar - Obviously good for oysters but famous for its lobster roll
Rogue et Blanc - French-Vietnamese restaurant with an incredibly intriguing menu, so much so that I had to go twice
Shake Shack - Has a cult following like its West Coast counterpart, In-N-Out

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